Gaudi vs Gaudy – Who Rules Barcelona?
This is city number two on our 65-day trip to Spain, and the mighty Barcelona is on the list for the next 5 days. With no past experience visiting Barcelona, my mind was wide open to whatever the city presented. Some people love the work of Gaudi, and others think it is ostentatious, extravagantly bright, showy, and tasteless, as per the Webster Dictionary. Read how we experienced Gaudi vs Gaudy.
Travel Goals for Barcelona
We had 3 goals for this 5 days:
- Walk – a lot, you remember that Camino thing…we need to get fit.
- To learn as much about Gaudi as possible, and make our own opinion to decide if it is Guady or Gaudi that rules Barcelona.
- Don’t fall prey to the pickpockets.
Saved by a Brit With A Warning
The train trip from Zaragoza to Barcelona was uneventful, and I highly recommend it. As the train pulled into the station, I felt my heart constrict. We are well-traveled and experienced travelers, but the caution about Barcelona and it’s pickpockets worried me.
A 15-minute or E12 drive on an Uber takes us to our apartment on Rambla de Catalunya. But alas, how do we enter? There is no doorman, no front desk, just a locked door and an intercom that nobody answers. Along comes Mandy, a Brit who lives in the building. She tells us that we should have gotten a code to access the building. We should also have a second code to access the apartment. Mandy invited us into the foyer but said she had to see if anybody could let us enter the apartment. She soon returned and took us to the front door of our apartment.
Mandy shared that the area was great (I know how to pick them) and gave us her favorite restaurant’s name. Before entering the elevator, she said, “Be careful for pickpockets.” Yep, that was all I needed to get the anxiety going again. Thank you, Mandy, you saved the day. But I could have lived without that warning. The photo above show the view out of our apartment.
Heaven and Rainbows For a Grown Man
After securing all our belongings, we set off to explore. Johan found heaven displayed as a rainbow just outside the front door. A Lindt shop was less than 50 feet from our front door. All our granddaughters love rainbows, and as of today, oupa does too. Specially if the rainbow is created by colorfully wrapped chocolate. I am sure the little ones will love this shop too. With more chocolates than even Johan can eat in a sitting. At the door, we were greeted by a lovely young lady offering free chocolates. What a great job to have… making people happy without them paying a cent. She also handed Johan a carry bag and told him to have fun. Close your eyes and imagine a chocoholic in this candy store. At least he did show some decorum and added only one or two pieces of a kind.
I tried to be the voice of reason. But the most I got was a response that he will “mainly” add the ones he does not know. Soon, the bag was half full. The girl at the register loved Johan and his excitement about the chocolate. She was already close to the top of the list of his favorite people. She moved to numero uno when she said “if you add only eight more chocolates”, you can get an extra slab for free. Johan’s not a betting man, but he understood the odds. Getting more chocolates in the bag was not a problem, and neither was accepting a free one.
His free slab was “chocolate with figs.” Two of his favorites. Johan was proud to announce that he now had the “fruit food group” covered. For me, that sounds like an alcoholic saying that red wine is good for your heart. So he drinks a couple of bottles a day. Needless to say, heaven was so close that day, he could even taste it. When I asked Johan a little later if he loved any chocolate, his response was quick. “Every chocolate in that bag.”
The Undercurrent of Barcelona
As the golden hues of sunset bathe Barcelona in a soft, forgiving light, our journey through its streets carries not just awe for the architectural marvels, but also a keen awareness of the city’s more shadowy challenges. Among these, the art of navigating through the throngs of tourists and locals alike comes with a cautionary tale of pickpockets. A subtle undercurrent in the vibrant life of Barcelona. Las Ramblas, a famous walkway in Barcelona, has the most pickpockets in Spain. The great thing about traveling off-season or on-the-shoulder season is that there are fewer people, less pushing, and greater awareness.
In the same way that Antoni Gaudí meticulously designed his creations to blend with the natural and spiritual realms, we find ourselves adapting to the city’s rhythm, learning to move with a heightened sense of awareness. The enchanting allure of places like the Sagrada Familía and Park Güell serve as reminders to remain vigilant. To protect the treasures we carry, much like Gaudí’s treasures that grace this city.
As we wander, the whispers of caution from fellow travelers and locals echo in my mind. Gone are the days when you handed your phone to somebody to take a photo. We have seen many YouTube videos of the light-fingered artists. They, much like the architects of old, possess their own skill, albeit one shrouded in stealth and shadow. And they are proud of it. They see themselves as artists not thieves. Their stage is the crowded metros, the bustling Las Ramblas, and even the serene paths of Park Güell. Here, tourist’s attention is easily stolen by the sheer beauty of Gaudí’s work.
We only had experience with pickpockets at Sagrada de Familia. Here a young man dressed like a tourist came up to us and offered to take our photo. My new selfie stick worked perfectly. After I said no, he left quickly like disappearing mist at sunrise. Did he have bad intentions? Maybe not, but we were not going to take the chance.
Barcelona Mid February
Outside of wondering why the train tickets between Barcelona and Zaragoza were so expensive, we had yet to learn of the 3 big things happening in the city while we were there. With no prior planning and our usual traveler’s luck, our trip coincided with Eulalia Festival, Carnival and the The Boston Marathon.
Eulalia Festival
This festival is in honor of the patron saint of Barcelona. During the festival, they build large human towers.
Unfortunately, we missed this festival as we did not know in what area of the city it took place. We were just in time to see vendors clearing out. You can only win some of them!
Carnaval Barcelona
Carnaval in Barcelona is a spectacle of color, energy, and creativity, bringing the city to life with its vibrant parade that snakes through the streets, alive with the rhythm of music and dance. As the city dons its most flamboyant costumes, the air fills with excitement and the spirit of revelry. People from all walks of life gather to witness and participate in this annual extravaganza, their faces painted and spirits high, contributing to the pulsating energy that defines the Carnaval.
Amidst this jubilant chaos, however, the festive atmosphere becomes a fertile ground for pickpockets, who blend seamlessly into the crowds. Revelers, caught up in the euphoria of the parade and the camaraderie of the celebration, find themselves needing to guard not just their personal joy but also their belongings. This was the first test to see if the bags Johan made were pickpocket-proof. We had lots of fun and went home with all our processions in place. Great stitching Johan!
Barcelona Marathon
The Barcelona Marathon, a highlight for runners and spectators alike, commenced at the break of dawn at 7:30 AM on a crisp Sunday morning. This iconic event, weaving through the heart of one of Spain’s most vibrant cities, offers participants the unique opportunity to race past historic landmarks, bustling streets, and alongside the Mediterranean Sea, all while being cheered on by enthusiastic crowds. The marathon showcases the athletic spirit and the cultural and scenic beauty of Barcelona, making it a must-experience event for marathon enthusiasts and casual observers alike.
The early start was the only reason Johan and I did not participate. 😉 We did come across some friendly folks on the street, and I took a photo with them. At least I got to see the medal. For me, the scarf was the closest I got to a medal that day. Take note that I do have the right shoes on.
Take a more detailed peak at the background photo. More to come on that one…On the right Sagrada de Familia.
This is What I Call Gaudy
If you ask me what gaudy is…this is it. A whole store focused on poop!
Cupra Dark Rebel
This is what I call gaudy, but Johan loved it. The car is 100% electric with a massive rear diffuser, and a sailboat keel in the back. There is only one in the world and we got to see it. Again best of all, we did not ever know it existed, or that it will be on display during the carnival – travelers luck, you just need to embrace it. I recommend watching the video it explains everything better than I can. From digital format to reality. Did I say something about travelers’ luck? How fast can we walk? Almost as fast as this car! 😇
Gaudi vs. Guady
In the heart of Barcelona, our steps echo on the ancient cobblestones, each turn and alleyway whispering secrets of the past and visions of the future. It’s here, amidst the bustling streets and serene squares, that the tale of two contrasting concepts unfolds: Gaudí, the architect, versus gaudy, an adjective often misunderstood and misplaced within the context of this vibrant city. 2 Blocks from our apartment was La Pedrera or Casa Milà. We loved just walking past it. Below, the setting sun gave the building a golden glow. A golden crown on this masterpiece.
Antoni Gaudi the Architect
Antoni Gaudí, a name that resonates with the architectural soul of Barcelona, was a visionary whose creations leap beyond the ordinary, defying conventional boundaries with their organic forms and intricate details. His works are not mere structures; they are poetry cast in brick, stone, and mosaic. Johan mentioned that I never had this true love and understanding for architecture, but my 12 years with HKS Architects changed that. It made me aware of how an architect thinks and helped me to understand the story they try to tell with the building they design.
As I meander through the city, the Sagrada Familia reaches for the heavens, its spires like fingers of aspiration, ambition, and devotion intertwined. This masterpiece, still incomplete, stands as a testament to Gaudí’s genius and his unwavering faith, a beacon of creativity that continues to draw millions from across the globe.
With only one last crane standing the question on everbody’s lips is: How long before the Zagrada Familia is done? The answer “any day now.” Reality is a little different, if you read up it says the steeples and most of the church’s structure are to be completed by 2026. However, it might take longer to complete some other parts of the basilica; the decorative elements should be complete by 2030 or 2032, or even later. But if you keep in mind that work on this started in 1882 then 2 years is not a long time…so anyday now sounds about right.
Gaudi’s First Designed House Spoilt by Entitlement
Our first stop of day two was at the first house that Gaudi designed, Casa Vicens. He did the design for a friend. Since this is one of the more minor works of Gaudi, it is a little off the beaten track and not as popular as the other sites. We loved that the place was not overrun.
We did an audio tour and made good progress through the small building when we met up with “Miss Entitlement.” Im sure the sash was somewhere in a bag. This young woman was so self-absorbed that she spoiled the experience for so many of us. She just parked her tripod in the middle of a doorway. Then, she set herself up to do a 5-minute photo opportunity with herself standing in each imaginable position in the room. Smiling, not smiling, looking over her shoulder, hair in the front, hair over the eyes…you get the picture. She was not concerned that everybody behind her could not go into the room.
Really, can you be so entitled that you have no respect for others? If you stop focusing on yourself, you will find a friend who can take a photo of you without you taking up a whole room just for yourself.
But she was not the last self-absorbed, entitled, non-considerate woman in Barcelona. We saw another one on the spiral staircase in Sagrada de Familia. This is a single person staircase with no handrail on the right. You have to hug the wall, or run the risk of falling 100’s of feet down. Miss Self-Absorbed decided to stop. She looked for small-change in her purse and then tried to get the perfect video of herself tossing money onto a rooftop. Really – there are hundreds of people behind you, with nowhere to go, not up, or down unless you get over yourself. These two young women’s arrogance and entitlement far outweighed any similar instances I have seen.
Below a photo in one of the rooms, on this one I might agree that Gaudi’s work is gaudy. It is a little over the top.
The Road Less Traveled
Park Güell sprawls over Carmel Hill, a mosaic wonderland that feels like stepping into an enchanted forest designed by nature itself but interpreted through Gaudí’s imaginative lens. Johan and I set off to the highest point in the park, ensuring a great view over Gaudi’s vision.
Just outside the park, we saw a “shortcut,” an unpaved road, and we decided to follow the people in front of us. At this point, we were exhausted, and a shortcut was just what the doctor ordered. When we made it to the top, we were blocked by a high fence. What on earth? With our “fluent Spanish,” we asked around, just to find out that the tickets were sold out. For those without tickets, this was the closest they could get to try and get a glimpse of the park. For us with tickets, this was a self-made shortcut leading to nowhere. So down we went on the paved and straight road, into the park. Let that be a lesson!
Starting at the top was harder work, but the serpentine benches, whimsical sculptures, and the vibrant trencadís (a type of mosaic made from broken tile shards) create a kaleidoscope of colors that dance under the Spanish sun, each piece a stroke of artistic brilliance that speaks of Gaudí’s love for his craft and his homage to the natural world. Yes, starting at the bottom will take you to the most photographed sites sooner, but you will miss an essential part of how Gaudi envisioned the park. I saw Guadi and his absolute brilliance. In Güell park I never saw “Gaudy.” I saw playful, fun, artistic, but nothing ostentatious.
New Friends and A Selfie Stick
During our time in New Jersey, Johan and I met a couple who were on their way to Spain. We chatted for about 30 minutes, sharing our past experiences and what we wanted to do in Spain. I never thought we would cross paths again, but to my surprise, we saw them outside the Sagrada de Familia among the crowd of thousands of people.
After getting my new selfie/onsie stick, I was still getting used to operating it. As you may recall from the beginning of the article, we could not entrust our camera to someone else to take the photo. Despite some laughter, I managed to capture a photo of the six of us, although I had difficulty figuring out where and how to point the camera. In the future, I will come prepared with my tripod and selfie stick, positioned in the center of the room, while others stand on the edges and grumble.😊
That was just a joke; I hope never to be so self-absorbed.
If Our Faith Could Only Shine Like This
Not far from Park Güell lies the monumental work of faith. It’s visible from various parts of the city, and we enjoyed capturing its towers in our photos. “I was not ready for what I saw inside the basilica. I often hear the word ‘gaudy’ being used to describe Gaudí’s work, but it doesn’t seem to be the right term. ‘Gaudy’ suggests too much decoration, brightness, or color to the point of being tacky or tasteless, but that doesn’t seem to fit with the beauty of Gaudí’s creations. The designs, although bold and complex, perfectly blend form, function, and symbolism. They are not just displays of wealth, but are instead reflections of the deep connection between architecture and the divine, the earthly, and the ethereal.
I adore colors, and the inside of the basilica was filled with them. There was so much light and so many colors. This experience made me realize that a place of worship doesn’t have to be boring and dull. “It can be playful and full of color. A place that people want to go to. Listening to the audio of Gaudi’s intentions with each piece of the design really made me think. For example, he planned the highest tower to be shorter than Montserrat (a mountain peak in the city) because no man’s work should be higher than the work of God. Wow! Could we all learn something from that statement?”
In the juxtaposition of Gaudí and gaudy within the narrative of Barcelona, a deeper understanding emerges. Gaudí’s work challenges us to see beyond the surface, to appreciate the subtlety in the grandiose, the intention behind the intricate. It’s a reminder that beauty, in its most profound sense, transcends the boundaries of conventional aesthetics, inviting us to explore the depths of creativity and spirituality intertwined.
What does that remind you off?
For me, there was one building that also stood high and tall, always in the background of photos, trying to outshow other buildings. I asked Johan what he thought of the building, and his response was, “It looks like a suppository.” Tears were streaming down my face, and I held my stomach laughing. After that, I could never unsee it. Talk about gaudy.
But in honesty, the Torre Glòries is a pretty and impressive building and marks the entry into the technology district in Barcelona. Apologies to the architect who designed this, but for those of us who know Johan, I’m sure you can hear him saying it with a straight face.
Resilience and Adaptability
With our wallets tucked safely, our steps confident but cautious, we move through the city with a dance-like precision, a silent acknowledgment of the pickpockets’ presence but a firm refusal to fall prey to their craft.
This dance with caution becomes a part of the story, a testament to the resilience and adaptability of travelers and locals alike. At one point I offered to take a photo of a young couple. I must have a trusting face because he handed me his phone. When I, in turn, handed the phone to Johan to take the photo, I could see the fear in his eyes. You could see how he thought that he might have made a crucial mistake. It serves as a reminder that, within the beauty and inspiration drawn from Gaudí’s Barcelona, there lies the need for vigilance and wisdom.
What is Barcelona without Gaudi?
I loved the city and contemplated how much would Barcelona be without Gaudi, and his brilliance. The food would be spectacular, the weather nice and balmy, there would be other great architecture wonders, but without Guadi, for me Barcelona would just be another large city.
Conclusion to Guady vs. Gaudi
As the sun sets over Barcelona, casting a golden glow over the city, the distinction between Gaudí and gaudy becomes clearer. In this place, where history and innovation meet, Gaudí’s legacy is a beacon of artistic and architectural marvel, far removed from the superficiality the term “gaudy” might imply. His work, embedded in the heart of Barcelona, continues to inspire and awe, a testament to the enduring power of vision of Guidi.
And so, as the city unfolds its wonders before me, I embrace the full spectrum of Gaudi’s colors and the city’s offerings. The magnificent and the mundane, the sublime and the shadowy. In doing so, I find a richer, more nuanced understanding of Barcelona, a city that, much like Gaudí’s work, is beautifully complex and endlessly fascinating. There is nothing gaudy here (except self-absorbed humans).
P.S. If You were still wondering, Gaudy is not a person and should not be capitalized. But I loved the playfulness of the title and thus used Gaudi vs Gaudy.